Monthly Archives: April 2018

Frost Risk in Grape Production

Springtime in the northern hemisphere means beautiful, clear, sunny spring days, but these same cloudless days can lead to the perfect conditions for significant frost risk at night. Overall, frost negatively impacts quantity more than quality and can be an annual event in cool regions like Champagne and Niagara, but it can also impact warmer regions like Bordeaux and Napa. A frost that gripped France in April of 2017 caused losses of 20-50% in Champagne, and its impact reached all the way down to Languedoc and Roussillon. Understanding frost and its prevention are important to the economic survival of many vineyards around the world.

What is frost?

Frost is a deposit of ice crystals when temperatures fall below freezing (0°C). Frost damage occurs in a vineyard after the green tissue has started to swell with moisture after budburst as this moisture is subject to freeze. There are two types of frost in the vineyard: advection frost and radiation frost.

Advection is less common as it is a large mass of cold air that settles on a large area. This type of frost is more common in the winter season where it can occur both during the day and night. This is a difficult kind of frost to protect against since there is no warm air to be circulated.

Radiation frost is more common and occurs on cold, still, cloudless nights. Note that soil generally absorbs heat from the sun during the day and releases it at night, helping to warm vines. Also note that warmer air rises while colder air will sink toward the ground, and clouds can stop warm air from rising higher, helping moderate night temperatures. Therefore, on cold, still, cloudless nights, warmer air will continually rise through the atmosphere, and ground air will become colder and colder.

When does frost occur?

Frost damage occurs most commonly in the spring after budburst when green tissues (including leaves and embryonic flowers) have started to grow. This tender tissue is swollen with water that will freeze. Dormant vines and older growth have less moisture and are thus more naturally protected. Spring frosts can kill off this young growth and cause a loss of quantity and damage the forming buds of next year’s growing season. Quality is generally not impacted by spring frost except that ripeness may be less uniform and canopy management more complicated.

Frost damage can occur before harvest in the autumn as well. While a less common occurrence if the variety is well-matched to the site, freezing grapes can rupture (reducing weight/quantity) and provide an entry point for disease development and fungus (decreasing quality). An early autumn frost can also cause leaves to drop faster, impacting carbohydrate accumulation, which will have a negative impact on the winter hardiness of the vine.

Frost prevention

There are passive and active strategies that can be used to help mitigate the risk of frost in a vineyard. Passive strategies that start before the frost season include site selection, ground cover management, cordon height, and delaying budburst. Active strategies include using water sprinklers, wind machines, and heat when frost is about to strike.

Site selection would be the first way to help prevent frost risk. While not always possible, an ideal scenario would be to plant in an area with low frost risk like Sardinia, Italy or Worcester, South Africa. If that’s not possible, planting near large bodies of water will help temper the local climate and mitigate frost risk. For example, the vineyards in the Finger Lakes grow on a narrow band along the shores of these lakes to benefit from their tempering effect.

Within a site, planting on a slope can mitigate frost risk as cold air moves to lower ground like water. One vineyard in the Finger Lakes had a small depression in a vineyard that pooled cold air and was planted to Pinot Noir. Due to the freezing of the vines in that small dip every year, that patch is now planted to Riesling, which buds later.

Vineyard floor management can help mitigate frost risk. A flat and clear vineyard floor will absorb and release more heat than one covered with an insulating layer of cover crops or mulch. Soil moisture will also absorb more of the sun’s heat than dry soils.

Since cold air stays close the ground, the cordon height is another way to mitigate frost risk by planting higher as is done in the Alto Adige in the northeast alpine region of Italy.

See? Apical buds (the ones at the ends) burst before the basal buds (the ones closest to the trunk).

Delaying budburst—keeping the vine closer to the dormant stage until frost risk has passed—is another strategy. A vineyard manager can start by planting a late-budding grape like Riesling (relative to Pinot Noir in the example above). That said, the vine still needs to be matched to the growing season of the area. Cabernet Sauvignon is also a late-budding variety but needs a long growing season and will not sufficiently ripen in a cool climate like the Finger Lakes.

Pushing back winter pruning while the vine is still dormant will generally not delay budburst, but double pruning can help. This strategy uses winter pruning to remove excess growth and leave this year’s fruiting wood with a full complement of buds (30+). Since buds on the tips of canes will burst first (and basal buds last), leaving the full amount of buds during the frost season will make those buds subject to damage before the basal buds have started to swell. After frost risk has passed, the canes (with the useless buds on the ends) will be pruned away, and the basal buds will then burst without risk of frost damage. This double pruning method is very labor intensive but has been shown not to delay harvest dates.

Strategies that can be used after vineyard establishment include using overhead sprinklers as frozen water will not drop below 0°C, thus protecting the tender shoots in a “blanket” of frozen water.

Wind machines are common in many vineyards around the world and work by mixing the warmer air above with the colder air below, moderating the overall temperature of the vineyard. Some parts of the world use helicopters to mix air on the same principle. While wind machines are more common where frost in an annual event, helicopters can be used when needed and can target the areas that are most at risk.

Heating a vineyard via smudge pots, burning winter pruning, or bougie candles warm the air via convection. This method needs multiple sources of heat throughout the vineyard and would work best if there was an inversion layer to trap the heat being generated (which is often not present).

Less conventional methods to help with frost risk include heated wires wrapped around the cordons and canes. This has been shown to be reasonably effective, though it does not cover and protect the whole canopy.

Artificial fogging can also create that needed inversion layer to trap cold air, but a vineyard would need a very clean source of water and a fine emitter to produce this result. There is also a risk of public liability if the artificial fog were to spill into roadways.

Conclusion

With frost damage making the headlines more often in more grape growing regions, understanding how frost is created and employing the right mix of prevention and mitigation strategies are more important than ever to help bring in a complete, uniformly ripe grape crop.

Happy World Malbec Day!

April 17th, 1853 marks the day that President Domingo Faustino Sarmiento of Argentina officially made it his mission to transform Argentina’s wine industry. Malbec has gone from the replacement for Merlot (early to pronounce, attractively fruit-forward, including a good shellac of vanilla-scented oak, produced on a massive scale and value-priced) to examples that are more focused, more site-specific, and well-crafted to show their terroir.

In honor of this holiday, I pulled a few bottles to refresh my markers. The two Malbecs I tasted were from the homeland of Malbec (Cahors, France) and the homeland in the New World (Mendoza, Argentina).

Malbec markers:
Overall, the wines are deep garnet with a distinctly pink (sometimes neon) rim and staining tears. In both examples, dark fruits lead the way with medium+ body and balanced alcohol (13.0-13.5%), and what stood out to me was the elevated levels of bright acidity that lifted the mid-palate.

Cahors markers:Southwest France wine map
Cahors is upriver from Bordeaux on the River Lot, and Malbec is a minor blending partner in Bordeaux, but otherwise, this region has nothing to do with them. Cahors has to be a minimum of 70% Malbec (called Cot here), and the rest can be Merlot and/or Tannat. I love that they “soften” Malbec here with Tannat. My example here was 80% Malbec and 20% Merlot.

Compared to the Mendoza example, the character of the dark fruits was pure, and the aromas were all about savory things: leather, bloody, bitter chocolate, and organic earth. It had bright acidity , but the tannins were more dried herbal/edgy/savory. It is definitely a wine for lovers of old world styles and would show best with food (especially something gamey).

Mendoza markers:Wine map Argentina
This region is too large to make sweeping generalizations about the climate or soils, and this is might be one of the reasons why Malbec has become a consistently successful brand it is today. With so many micro-terroirs to blend from, you can be assured that you will have a clean, varietally correct glass of wine. I have seen more of a focus on these micro-terroirs lately.

Very fruit forward (to let you know that this is from the New World), the dark fruits of plums and blueberries were cooked (almost candied) and framed by chocolate notes, violet florals, and a hint of mint (or alcohol? The label said 13.0%). But compared to Cahors, this was all about generous and attractive fruits. Again, bright acidity lifted the soft dark fruits, and tannins were more ripe/resolved tannins. Very easy to drink.

Laterals: Syrah, Merlot, and Dão
When I miss Malbec, I usually have Syrah or Merlot. I can also throw a red from the Dão in there. My tasting partner threw in Greanche, but the color and the acidity was off.

Malbec lateralsMalbec Versus Syrah: Similar color, including pink (though more purple on the Syrah) rim and staining tears. Dark fruits on the nose were also similar, but there were a lot of savory elements in the Syrah that I think are unique to it. For instance, the Cahors shows a lot of savory notes (leather/meaty), and Syrah typically shows meaty/smoky notes. But there’s an olive and mint/eucalyptus that I associate strongly with Syrah. Also, while the Syrah was leading with dark plums, there were also red fruits here.

Malbec has some tannins, but Syrah has massive tannins. The chunky tannins on the Syrah carried the fruit through to the finish while the Malbecs were more balanced between the fruits and the texture of the tannins.

In a blind situation, I would consider Syrah for the color, cooked dark fruits, savory elements, and medium+ acidity. But the tannins here are massive, and the aromas include very distinctive Syrah markers like the olive, smoke, and mint. By comparison, the Mendoza Malbec was all about fruits and spice, and the Cahors was all about savory notes and savory tannins.

Malbec Versus Merlot: The color on the Merlot, while deep, was not as inky as the Malbecs and did not have any pink or staining tears. I always get in trouble using color as an absolute funnel though. Merlot has intense dark fruits but a lot of red fruits as well. Like I said above, I don’t typically get a lot of red fruits out of Malbec but more dark plum and blueberry. That said, there was a sweetness to the Merlot fruit that harkens to Malbec, but it was not candied as in the Mendoza example. The elevated amount of tannins was similar to Malbec but had only moderate acidity in this example of Merlot.

I have often mistaken Merlot for Malbec, and I’m updating my funnel to point out that Merlot has dark and red fruits. Really pay attention to the mid-palate. Malbec has a bright acid lift across your tongue while Merlot has a plump coating of fruit across the tongue (with acidity framing that fruit on the sides). Tell me if you agree.

Malbec versus PortugalMalbec Versus Dão: This wine shares the deep ruby color of the Malbec, but the rim is also ruby (nothing pink about it). Like the Cahors, there is a strong savory and meaty note dominating the nose of the Dão, but instead of that organic earth, it was more of a stony minerality. (I typically find a lot of granite notes in all wines from Portugal.)

The Dão had the dark fruits that both Malbecs show but none of the chocolate, and I did find red fruits as well for the Dão (more dried strawberries and cherries) where there were not a lot of red fruits in any of the Malbecs. The palate on the Dão was distinctive with pronounced acidity (even higher than the Malbecs) with massive, coarse tannins. Even the Cahors with its more rustic/savory tannins were finer in texture by comparison.

My funnel will now say that there are more red fruits, pronounced acidity, and massive tannins of native Portuguese grapes in the Dão that make it different from the Malbec.

Other laterals I have written down over the years include Tannat and Petit Verdot for the inky color and massive tannins, but I am finding that Malbecs today show more resolved tannins than I had originally thought. I also have Bonarda as a possible lateral for the acidity, but Bonarda doesn’t show the purple tints of Malbec nor the candied fruit (actually, my Bonarda note reads more like Barbera!). These kinds of laterals are going down the rabbit hole… Go for the obvious.

Bright color rose of MalbecMalbec Rosé:
No need to adjust your screen. That is the correct color. Bright pink, almost cotton candy in color (White Zinfandel is a lateral on color alone). This makes sense when you remember that the two Malbecs above both had a neon pink meniscus. The rosé here had generous dark fruits, especially blueberry, and a touch of earth (though not mineral). Tried as I did, I did not get any red fruits at all. That’s a marker. Similar medium+ amount of juicy acidity found in the still red versions with a bit of dissolved CO2 to help lift the fruits. It was full-bodied for a rose and not quite bone dry. The tech sheet said 13% abv, and the bottle was printed at 14.5% (I thought it was something in between).

So, those are my markers and laterals. I hope you found it useful. Crack a bottle (or several) of Malbec tonight, and tell me what your markers and laterals are.

Why is alcohol in wine so important?

As the second most abundant component in wine (after water), understating alcohol’s role in wine is important. Alcohol is so central to the definition of wine that in many countries around the world, there are stated alcohol minimums in order for a fermented grape product to even be called wine (5.0% in the UK, 8.5% (with exceptions) in the EU, and 0.5% in United States). Alcohol is important for sensory, stability, and health reasons, but there are also important negative consequences as well.

The sensory impact is the most obvious and important role that alcohol plays in wine. Alcohol enhances perception of the body and also increases aromatics as it carries aroma molecules with it when it volatilizes. Wine is certainly more generous in weight and aromatics than grape juice. Alcohol also provides a warming sensation on the palate as well as in your skin as alcohol causes blood vessels to dilate, moving blood closer to the surface of your skin.

chemical formula for alcohol

Alcohol also enhances the stability (and shelf life) of a wine. Specifically, alcohol is toxic to wine yeasts above ~15.5%. A moderate alcohol wine (11-14%) with the smallest amount of residual sugar is subject to refermentation in the bottle unless sterile filtered (not possible until post-WWII) or fortified to 16%+ alcohol. The classic example is Port, which has high levels of sugar (around 100g/L) but remains stable in the bottle due to the 19%+ alcohol by volume. In this case, the sugar helps to preserve the Port for many years, aided by the stability and longevity that the high alcohol provides.

Alcohol plays an important role in the longevity of humans as well. For centuries, wine and beer was preferred over water because microbes could not survive in wine and beer and were, therefore, more “clean” to drink than water. More recently, studies have shown moderate alcohol consumption can decrease the chance of everything from diabetes to dementia and even reduce your risk of cardiovascular disease. Beyond diseases, Catholic University of Campobasso recently analyzed a pool of studies and concluded that moderate alcohol consumption can decrease your chance of death by 18%.

But drinking more than moderate amounts can have important negative consequences. In addition to increasing your chances of liver disease and certain types of cancer (including breast cancer), large amounts of alcohol can negatively impact your physical (inflammation, lack of coordination, slurred speech) and mental health (memory loss, poor judgement, addiction). Social consequences of alcohol are an important topic in many parts of the world with organizations like DrinkWise in Australia and DrinkWare in the UK specifically setup to reduce the misuse of alcohol.

Alcohol in wine is important. Wine would not be the same pleasurable experience without alcohol nor would it last as long in the bottle. Alcohol is important for its health consequences, and when wine is allowed to be a respectful guest at the dinner table, the health benefits and the pleasure will accrue to the drinkers as well.

Alcohol is good

The Plan Part Deux: Wine exam addictions

Hi! My name is Kristina and I’m a test addict.

In school, I would often score in the 98th percentile of tests, only to later coast through my studies and get mostly B’s on my report cards.

Fast forward to today and it’s easy to see why I’m burned out from my MW studies. Shocking, I know. Not being in the program this year is painful because I’m not getting any feedback on my progress. I still meet with my tasting group every week, but even that feels stagnant.

This is how I justify a not-so-slight change in my plans. My ego needs to pass a test.

Certified Wine Educator

I passed the Certified Specialist in Wine exam by the Society of Wine Educators about ten years ago, but I didn’t pursue the higher designation of Certified Wine Educator. I was already making some pretty good money teaching wine classes around town, so I didn’t see the need. In any case, I had some issues with the structure of the exam, plus I was working toward a WSET diploma, which is no small feat.

CWE books

Books – CHECK! Notebook – CHECK! Plan – CHECK!

Now that I’m working in my dream job, I can justify taking a crack at the CWE exam. I’m nervous because this test seems to focus more on rote memorization, whereas the MW is more about a global understanding of the business of wine. Of course, memorization may be a good thing: I struggle to name more than three subregions of South Africa. Or are they called wards? Or districts? I know, embarrassing, isn’t it?

Preparing for the Exam

Right now, I’m aiming for an exam date in August late May (I know!!  But I have some vacation time coming up!  Lemme try!!). I’m preparing for the CWE exams by working through the CSW Study Guide and Workbook (which have vastly improved since the late-2000s version), and I’m supplementing my studies with the Oxford Companion to Wine, Exploring Wine from the CIA, and GuildSomm.

I also need to get back into maps, and because the CWE exams include a teaching component, I’m going to commit to teaching you in some of the areas I’m weakest at. What are my weak points, you ask? Oh, pretty much all of the New World!
At the same time, I just completed the Italian Wine Professional Level 2 program—and passed, yippee! I’m also picking up the Italian Wine Scholar course (see comments above). I’m still meeting weekly with my MW tasting group, but my MW-specific studies are taking a backseat to my CWE studies, which will help me reground myself in the core of wine knowledge.

So that’s my new plan! Honestly, I can’t tell if I’m procrastinating or if this modified plan will actually help me, but it’s worth a shot! Wish me luck!

What are you studying for right now?